Through the lakes

Bushfires ravaged large tracts of bush south-west of Orbost and low brackens and ferns off-set the blackened trunks of recovering gums. Fishing boats, pleasure craft and tourist ferries jostle each other along the marina which stretches the length of the main street in Lakes Entrance.  This lakeside town has long been the preferred holiday option of Victorians and looking at the azure lakes and waterways stretching to the horizon one can understand.
We arrived at Ellie's at 1.0, ate a delicious lunch then caught the train into Flinder Street station. How Melbourne has changed!  Highrise towers dwarf the cathedral and historic town hall and federation square equally admired and disliked by locals dominates. The lanes, arcades and glamourous malls tempt you at every moment - I bought another handbag!  After a welcome respite at Laurant, a French pastisserie (which would have been at home in Paris) we explored further including the historic shot tower which dominates the centre of the Emporium - this was saved from demolition and protected by a huge glass coppola - a military relic in the heart of the city.
Melbourne shimmered in the afternoon heat, the promised breeze failed to appear so we opted for the air conditioned cool of an Italian restaurant instead of sitting at the tables and umbrellas which fill the centre of the lanes. The city is now buzzing with diners instead of shoppers.
Leaving our hotel ( the comfortable historic Victoria -125 years of hotelling in Little Collins Street) we walked in search of breakfast.  Settling down with Eggs Benedict we watched the morning rush. Away from the tourist areas the women of Melbourne are elegant and stylish in an understated way - pencil skirts, form fitting dresses, flirty, full short skirts often in black and white and the essential vertical heels - plain and elegant, pared back. Melbourne is a place to explore on foot - only then will you find the quirky and wonderful.